Four Ways to Have Awesome Winter Weekend in the Adirondacks

The Adirondack mountains hold a special place in my heart. Aside from being beautiful and close, I've had many a great adventure there. Until the past year or two, most of my adventures in the High Peaks region had been in warm weather. But there's so much to do in the winter, and so much fun to be had! After a trip up to Keene Valley and Lake Placid this past weekend, I decided I had to do the region's cold weather possibilities justice on the blog! Here are my four favorite ways to guarantee an awesome winter weekend in the High Peaks.

Climb Some Ice!

George showing us how it's done with one tool*

This past weekend, friend and ice leader extraordinaire George took me and a group of friends out to Chapel Pond Canyon in Keene Valley. Our first stop was the Mountaineer to rent gear, including an older version of the Camp Cassin C Comp mono point crampons for me and ice tools for George - the Grivel Quantum Tech and Matrix Tech. (For the record, the tools and crampons were amazing, though I'm not convinced I'm experienced enough to pass judgment on mono vs. dual point crampons!) We parked at Chapel Pond and started the approach, which took us around the edge of the pond through knee deep snow and into the sparsely forested canyon. Our destination was Positive Reinforcement, a beautiful NEI 3+/4- flow that can, as we discovered, accommodate three parties and four ropes.

George led right up the center of the formation and set up two top ropes for us to work on throughout the day. The first climb, set up on the far right side of the flow, was the easier of the two with plenty of stemming and resting opportunities. The second, set right in the middle, took us over a more sustained vertical section. I had to feebly yell "take!" to my belayer near the top of the second climb as the predictable pump and panic set in. Some day, I'll be able to climb 90' of ice without panicking! Two other pairs of climbers came in and set up in between us. Watching one party forgo ATCs for hip belays and Munter hitch knots made for some interesting conversations.

*a note on the photo - I bet George a beer that he couldn't climb the whole pitch with one tool. I upped the ante to a six pack if he could do it without falling. He fell once. Only one beer for George!

Ski Some...Ice?

A cloudy, but beautiful day at Whiteface.

While in the vicinity of Lake Placid, it seemed silly not to visit Whiteface Mountain. With a 3,000 foot vertical and 86 trails, it's one of the best skiing destinations on the east coast. Not to mention, of course, the fact that it's dubbed the Olympic Mountain after being home to the 1980 Winter Olympic Games. Whiteface is a beautiful mountain with terrain appropriate for all levels of skiers and boarders. My favorite runs are the long, meandering Wilmington Trail and the short blue square Silver Glades. Every resort should have a blue square glade run, in my humble opinion. I love zipping through the trees, but only when I'm sure I won't crash into one!

This was my second trip to the mountain, the first being in March of last year. Conditions were less than ideal; it was a busy day and most of the runs were incredibly icy. From what I've heard, this is pretty typical of the mountain and of course, typical of east coast skiing. The runs we did were pretty well skied off and all the snow had been packed into giant randomly placed bumps. My advice: get there early on busy days or visit on a weekday if you can. But the views were just as I remember - beautiful! 

Climb a Mountain

Aleya approaching the summit of Algonquin.

The Adirondack High Peaks region is a perfect place to learn and practice winter hiking and mountaineering. Last year, Aleya and I summited Algonquin (5,114') during a three day mountaineering course with the Eastern Mountain Sports Climbing School. The hike took our group of four 6-7 hours to complete and we summitted in howling winds and sub zero temperatures. After climbing a few High Peaks in the summer, it was amazing to see what the tops of the mountains look like in winter!

While our group was out ice climbing, Cornell swimming friend Jayme was out tackling Mount Colden (4,714'). Jayme and husband CJ are well on their way to becoming 46ers - an elite group of adventurers who've climbed the 46 highest peaks in the Adirondacks. Armed with snowshoes, Jayme and her group set off from the Adirondack Loj and hiked 11.2 miles round trip to the summit and back. Jayme reports, "It was a really nice day; just the right temperature.  Not so warm that we overheated in our layers, but not so cold that we felt we had to tag the summit and make a madcap dash back down for cover from the wind in the trees. Views from the summit were minimal, but the hike up the mountain was very pretty, with so much undisturbed snow.  I would love to find a sunny winter day to go back up.  It would be stunning." Jayme and CJ chronicle their ADK 46er adventures at Paperchasers Gone Wild.

Be a Tourist in an Olympic City

Lake Placid Brewery. Yum.

Lake Placid played host to the Olympic Winter Games twice, once in 1932 and again in 1980. If you're not up for climbing mountains, skiing, or climbing ice, some of the Olympic facilities and activities in town are perfect alternatives. Visit the Bobsled and Luge Complex for a short but thrilling ride down the bobsled track. Take a tour of the Olympic Jumping Complex, including a glass enclosed elevator ride to the observation deck at the top of the K-120 jump. (The "K" refers to the distance ski jumpers aim to reach to receive the maximum number of points for distance.) Drive out of town to the High Peaks Information Center to learn more about the region. And of course, be sure to visit the Lake Placid Pub and Brewery for their famous Ubu Ale.

If you've been to the High Peaks in the winter, what are some of your favorite activities? Have you participated in any mentioned above?

Gear Review: The Red Hot Mountain Hardwear Women's Cohesion Jacket

The Cohesion Jacket and I on Rainier. (S. Lingafelter)

It's all well and good to blend in with the natural environment when you're playing outside. Muted blues, greens, browns, even black and gray are beautiful. But sometimes, a girl's got to stand out. Red is one of those eye-popping head-turning colors it's hard not to feel sexy in, even when you're soaking wet and haven't showered in three days. Red can certainly be an intimidating color to wear, but looks spectacular when it's done right.

Construction and Features
Of course, color isn't the only factor to consider in any outdoor gear purchase. The Mountain Hardwear Women's Cohesion Jacket is a solid, full featured high performance hard shell with Conduit™ DT to keep you dry and water-resistant pit zips for ventilation. Waterproof, breathable stretch panels on the elbows and back of the jacket make moving around easy and the Ergo hood fits perfectly over climbing and ski helmets. It's constructed with Ark™ 40D nylon ripstop fabric, (the "D" refers to "denier," which measures the density of textile fibers), and is super light at 13 oz. It comes in several colors, including the eye-popping Lava Red.

Overall Fit and Appearance
The length of the jacket and sleeves is perfect for me; my rear end and wrists are completely covered. I have long arms and usually have trouble with sleeve length. The Velcro cuff tabs work well to close off the sleeves and I'm glad the jacket was designed without elastic in the cuffs. I didn't notice the stretch panels on the back and sleeves until I tried ice climbing in a jacket without them. The panels make a big difference in the jacket's movement. The hood fit securely over my climbing helmet, but is on the edge of being too big. That's a hood problem I'm okay with!

The only complaints I have are the positioning of the front pockets and the overall cut. The front pockets are a bit higher than I'd like them to be; the waist belt on my climbing harness covered them completely. I don't expect to need to reach into the pockets while I'm climbing, but you never know! I'd also like to see a more figure-flattering fit. I'll take functionality over form any day, but the jacket is a bit boxy. I found it tight around the hips under all of my layers. 

The jacket and I out for a climb! (D. Herscovitch)

Performance and Recommended Use
The Cohesion and I have been through a lot over the past nine months. We've climbed Mount Rainier together, we've ice climbed together, and we've been on winter hikes together. The jacket performed beautifully in each of those situations. When the wind kicked up on Mount Rainier, I stayed warm. When it started snowing on the Appalachian Trail, I stayed comfortable. When I climbed an 80' pillar of ice, I stayed dry, and didn't get any ice chips down my sleeves!

To me, the Mountain Hardwear Cohesion jacket feels like it's constructed to be a cold weather backcountry shell. It's made to fit over layers. It's definitely breathable, but I wouldn't suggest using it as a rain jacket in warm-weather months or during activities that are likely to make you sweat profusely, i.e. running. For winter activities, it's perfect.

Where to Buy
The Cohesion is available for $82.48-165 depending on the color through Moosejaw, Backcounty.com, Altrec.com, and Mountain Hardwear.

Six Reasons You Need to Give Ice Climbing a Try

chillin' in Ricketts Glen State Park. (D. Herscovitch)

Up until a year or two ago, the concept of climbing ice was completely foreign to me. Rock climbing, sure, but ice? Even after learning it existed, I couldn't believe people actually did it. But I tried it, learned more about it, and it's quickly becoming one of my favorite cold weather activities. Here are my top six reasons why you've got to add it to your list of sports to try. 

(1) It just looks cool. This is indisputable. You're scaling frozen waterfalls, temporary structures, in the cold with sharp objects in your hands and attached to your feet. For some, the concept of climbing a wall of ice seems unfathomable. And if you add in the perceived danger factor, it's as cool as outdoor sports get (pun intended). And it's not just about how cool it looks to everyone else; it looks cool to me. It just looks like fun. As George, veteran ice climber since 2004 says, "when else will you be allowed to strap spikes onto your feet and wield a pair of axes?"

(2) Ice is really pretty, and every formation is completely unique. Ice can take so many incredible shapes. After you've tried ice climbing, you'll go back to the same formation a year, even a week later, and it will have changed. I visited Ricketts Glen State Park this weekend and the routes looked completely different than they did last year. "Ice climbing is exciting partly because you are climbing a completely different medium. It can change in a way such that the same climb can have a very different feel a day later," says George.

EMS climbing guide Matt looking super cool!

(3) Seasonal sports are great, but rock climbers and warm weather athletes need something to do in the winter. As much as I try not to be, I can be one of those people who complains about how difficult it can be to get some exercise in the winter. But if I've got a sport I'm interested in, or a new activity to try, I'm more likely to get off my rear end and get outside. Ice climbing is very different from rock climbing, and can give folks who think they have a handle on the vertical world a completely new perspective. Some people are heat seeking creatures, which I completely understand, but with the right gear and a thermos of hot cocoa, being outside in the cold really isn't that bad. Sure you'll get chilled, but it's (usually) only temporary. And down jackets work wonders, which brings me to reason #4...

(4) It's one more excuse to accumulate awesome new gear. Some of us outdoorsfolk love buying, renting, using and talking about cool new gear. There are so many varieties of crampons and ice tools to choose from, all specific to what you'll use them for. Then there are climbing harnesses, dry treated climbing ropes, climbing helmets, belay devices, hard shell pants and jackets, gloves, ice screws, screamers, the list is endless. (Yes, there is a sport in which one piece of protection is called a screamer.) Though all these toys can put a dent in your bank account, for a gear addict, there's nothing more fun than testing out a new tool. But please, when you're investigating new gear, think hard about whether it's really necessary or not and if there's an environmentally friendly way you can find it.

Friend Lauren's first time on ice!

(5) If you want to climb big mountains, it's a skill you'll probably need. Though many snow and ice covered mountains, including Rainier and McKinley, have routes without vertical ice, many, many others do not. Even if you can climb one route on a mountain avoiding technical ice climbing, you might find the best route up that mountain requires ice skills. The bottom line - it's an important tool for anyone interested in technical alpine climbing.

(6) You'll be in good company. You're closer to being as cool as Laurel, #badassgirl, who does things like this, and Caroline George, who does things like this. And then of course, there's Genevieve Hathaway, Jill from @GearGals, the Chicks With Picks instructors and alumni...the list goes on. These ladies are company you want to be in!

I spent this Sunday out climbing ice in Ricketts Glen State Park with TerraMar Adventures and the Bloomsburg Quest program as an event organizer for the second year in a row. The event filled up within 24 hours of posting it on the TerraMar website, which says to me most people don't need a reason to try ice climbing. They're already psyched to learn about it! Bloomsburg Quest and the EMS Climbing School helped start me out ice climbing, and there are local guide organizations everywhere to help you get started.

Ice climbers, what are some of the reasons you'd give to someone who's never put tool to ice before?

Gear Review: La Sportiva Women’s Nepal EVO GTX Mountaineering Boots

Ready for climbing! by Carla Cue.

With high arches and narrow heels, I’ve found La Sportiva climbing shoes fit me perfectly. When I heard they were coming out with a women’s-specific pair of mountaineering boots, I knew those were the first boots I had to try on my quest for the perfect pair.

My first look at leather boots came after a less-than-comfortable experience with plastics on an ice climbing and mountaineering trip in the Adirondacks.  I bought the La Sportiva Women’s Nepal Evo GTX boots in advance of a late summer Mount Rainier climb. I chose them over women’s models by Scarpa, Garmont and Asolo knowing the quality and fit of La Sportiva boots worked for me.

The first obstacle I ran into was finding a place to buy them in the correct size. Finding them in a size 42 was more difficult than I expected, and 42 was the largest size I’ve seen them sold in. I was concerned they were almost too small for my women’s size 10 feet.

Ricketts Glen, by Mark Trybulski

The first thing I did was to replace the insoles that came with the boots with Superfeet; the stock insoles felt much too thin.  The toe box is wide and allows plenty of space for extra socks, which came in handy on Rainier. I wore one pair of liner socks with a thick pair of mountaineering socks, and my feet stayed warm even as the temperature dropped to 10ºF. With temperatures below zero, I would consider switching to plastics; the Nepal Evo GTX boots are not made for extreme cold. Other features include insulation and a Gore-Tex waterproof breathable membrane, which keep feet warm and dry. They do not need to be treated for waterproofing out of the box. The lace locking system takes a little getting used to. The laces are locked down in the center eyelet, enough that I had to yank on the laces to get them unlocked. But it ensures they stay put and can be tightened down enough, and the removable tongue insert helps further ensures a snug, warm fit.

The boots were comfortable on the way up Mount Rainier, and I never had trouble with blisters. For mountaineering boots, they feel relatively lightweight. In addition to climbing on Rainier’s glaciers, I took them on many a training hike on the East Coast. They are full shank boots and are about as stiff soled as boots come, which means they are not made for hiking. However, on ice climbing trips, they worked like a dream. The stiff soles and toe box cushioned my feet while I kicked into the ice and my feet stayed put. They’re also designed to allow your ankles to flex despite the stiffness. I used them with both strap on and step in crampons without any trouble.

The only discomfort I had was on the descent of Mount Rainier; I had major issues with my big toes slamming into the front of the boot, enough to cause bruising. Tightening them down helped, but such stiff boots can only be tightened so much. This can be a sign that the boots are too small, but given that it had not been an issue on any hikes or ice climbing, adjusting sock layers was a good remedy.

Overall, I would definitely buy these boots again, and recommend them for mountaineering and ice climbing. They are pricey, retailing for $480, but are well worth the price. I have a feeling they will last me quite a while!

Covetable Cold Weather Gear

Covet \’kə-vət\: to wish for earnestly ; to desire inordinately or culpably.

I know it's mid-September. It's not even officially autumn yet. The first snowflake won't fall where I am for another three or four months, if one falls at all this winter. But I've already got a growing list of toys I'm coveting. I blame the existence of this list on Petzl; their release of the newest, coolest ice tools for the upcoming season got me going, and then I couldn't stop! This list encompasses things that (a) exceed my budget, (b) I would use in activities I've still got a lot to learn about, or (c) are just darn good looking.

Photo from Petzl.com

Petzl QUARK Ice Axe
I've ice climbed twice. Three times if you count the total number of days independently of the number of trips. But I absolutely love it, and have a few friends to do it with this winter! Lucky for me, I had the opportunity to test out three different types of ice tools and the Petzl QUARKs were my favorite. Between the weight (it's the lightest of Petzl's ice climbing tools), the handle (not a huge fan of the Black Diamond Fusion handle), and all of the interchangeable parts, it's a great piece of gear to covet. This year's model looks even better. According to Petzl's website, there are a couple of new and improved features on the QUARK this year. First, the modular head. The QUARK is designed to be both a technical ice took and mountaineering axe, and the modular head makes for super easy adjustments. Second, the modular handle, which allows for a many different grip combinations. I've climbed with leashes and without, and this grip looks perfect for leashless climbing.

Photo from LaSportiva.com

La Sportiva Olympus Mon EVO Boots Now, I'm going to be honest. I covet these not because I'm an experienced high-altitude mountaineer, because they're $900, or because I have habits of being in places where it's mind-numbingly cold. I covet these because I dream about getting myself into a situation where I'd need them! These, for me, are like the golden chalice of cold weather sports. To progress far enough in mountaineering where these would be necessary is something I'm pretty sure I'd love to do someday. Of course, on Everest, it doesn't have to be winter for these to come in quite handy.They're incredibly light weight considering their size, and kevlar on the calves means gaiters aren't necessary. The inner lacing system, according to reviews on Moosejaw, lets you leave your climbing partners in the dust getting ready in the morning. And if Melissa Arnot uses them on Everest, they've got to be pretty great. She knows her stuff! Now all La Sportiva needs is a women's specific model...

Camp Muir on Rainier. Photo by Tiffany Royal.

Mountain Hardwear Trango 3.1 Now if I'm going to covet hardcore mountaineering boots, I might as well pick a tent to go with them! The Trango tents have been long-standing favorites for mountaineers and I can certainly see why. I had the opportunity to sleep in one at Camp Muir on Rainier and found that, despite my past experience with 3-person tents barely fitting three people comfortably, the Trango 3.1 did. Tiffany, Sara and I did have to take turns spreading out all of our gear to pack for our summit bid, but that was the only time the tent felt cramped. I could kneel comfortably in it, and the vestibule provided plenty of room to store three packs and three pairs of boots. Mesh storage pockets run the length of both tent walls. Despite strong winds, the tent felt bomb proof, secure and warm, (which was thanks to our wonderful RMI guides who set it up for us).

Photo from Eddiebauer.com

First Ascent Downlight Sweater
I'm the proud owner of the First Ascent Peak XV Down Jacket and absolutely love it. It just fits, all of it. The hood stays where it's supposed to and everything's the right length. But winters around these parts aren't cold enough to warrant an 850 fill down parka, and I'd love to have something not quite as warm to wear around town, or as an insulating layer in place of fleece. I tried the Downlight Sweater on at Whittaker Mountaineering's gear shop and loved it. The best part - it comes in petite and tall sizes for those of us who don't meet standard specifications. The sleeves were almost too short for my arms in the standard sizes, but the torso fit perfectly. I never imagined a down jacket could be flattering! And the beautiful cyan blue one pictured to the left is particularly covet-worthy.

Photo from Piperlime.com

Merrell Spire Peak Waterproof Boots Merrell makes some of the best shoes and boots, casual and functional, I've ever worn. For hiking shoes, they're my go to company. When I moved to Alaska in 2006, I bought a pair of ankle boots similar to the Tetra Catch for walking around in Anchorage during the winter. They were the most comfortable, stylish winter boots I'd ever worn, and I finally retired them after I'd worn them to death and they fell apart three years later. They seem to have a nack for producing casual shoes that look good, feel good, and strike the perfect balance between the effort-free outdoorswoman and the girl in me who cares about looking cute. Every girl needs a good pair of tall boots, but not every girl needs to worry about whether or not she'll actually be able to walk in them. They even stretch a little to accommodate athletic calves. And they'll last for more than one winter!

What's on your wish list this winter? Anything good I left out?

Don't Feed Wildlife! (Even if it's Little.)

Ar Arctic Ground Squirrel poses in Denali.

I came across this article on twitter last night via @parkstraveler about the euthanization of yet another bear in Yellowstone National Park. She'd learned to associate the presence of people with the availability of food, and had become aggressive in her attempts to get it from them. This included venturing into a backcountry campsite and forcing a backpacker to give up his dinner. Five bears have been killed in Yellowstone this year, and the other most recent killing was through euthanization in June. It's depressing.


Those of us who enjoy the outdoors and wild places have a responsibility to protect them, and to leave them as we found them. This doesn't just mean avoiding tromping all over vegetation by venturing off established trails. It doesn't just mean disposing of the plastic water bottles or granola bar wrappers you use properly. It means having an inherent sense of respect for the outdoors, its inhabitants, and for others who revel in its beauty.

One of the best ways to see Denali National Park in the summer if you're short on time is through the Visitor Transportation System. There's one 92-mile road into Denali, only 15 miles of it are paved, and non-commercial vehicles are only allowed on the paved portion. The shuttle and tour busses, aside from human power, are your only option for park road travel. Tour bus drivers are certified driver-naturalists who can provide in-depth information about the park, its history, and its inhabitants.

With two full summers living in Denali, I had plenty of time to explore, but will never forget my first bus trip into the park. I was on a green shuttle bus bound for my first real Denali hike with new friend Emily. As the bus lurched forward and pulled on to the park road, one of the first things our driver made sure we knew was the importance of respecting wildlife. He told us he'd be glad to help us spot moose, bears, dall sheep, anything we could find, as long as we promised to be quiet, and to keep arms and cameras inside the bus. The wildlife, he told us, needed to be protected, and the best way to do that was to make sure our presence didn't affect them in any way. I was astounded that even an excited shout to other bus passengers could affect an animal.

Dall Sheep on the park road in autumn

One of the seven Leave No Trace principles is to respect wildlife. The article doesn't make it clear as to how the bear might have become so used to getting human food, but it's pretty unlikely visitors were hand-feeding her. Proper backcountry food storage and waste disposal are vital. Parks like Denali require all backcountry campers to carry food and other items that animals might mistake as food (toothpaste, deodorant, cough drops) in bear-resistant canisters. Campgrounds in Denali have bear-proof lockers and sheds for campers to store items in. It's as much for our own safety as it is for the animals.

We have to remember that we're visitors to their home, and approaching them for a better photo or a closer look can be incredibly stressful to them. If we're able to enjoy the outdoors without affecting its inhabitants, we'll all be much better off, and euthanized bear stories may be fewer and further between. The Leave No Trace website has some great resources on education and ways to minimize your impact on the outdoors, check 'em out!

Valentine's Day Ice Climbing

I'd venture to guess most of you who read my blog don't believe in a typical Valentine's Day celebration, or at least find creative ways to express love. Don't get me wrong, I adore flowers and being doted on and celebrating and dinners out! But I can't think of a better way to spend a Hallmark holiday rooted in the celebration of love than playing outside.


Sunday was a beautiful day in northern Pennsylvania, and a perfect day for what might have been my favorite TerraMar Adventures event to organize of all time: a mountaineering and ice climbing skills day! I started working with Brett Simpson, Associate Director of the Quest program at Bloomsburg University, a month before the event. Of course, with a sport like ice climbing that's so dependent on weather, we did our best to plan and crossed our fingers, hoping the ice would stick around long enough. Working with Brett was an event organizer's dream come true - everything was as smooth as butter on my end!

After several days of 40º F temperatures at the end of January, I was a little concerned about the conditions. But then Mother Nature walloped us with two feet of snow, it got considerably colder, and all was right with the world!

We met at Ricketts Glen State Park and spent an hour getting geared up. We hiked an hour in through snow covered trails and around beautiful waterfalls. The park is know for its 22 named waterfalls, one of which is 94 feet tall. Perfect for ice climbing! 

We split into two groups during the hike in. The first group, led by Brett, was comprised of more experienced climbers, i.e. those of us who'd used crampons before. We got right down into the gorge and on the ice. The second group, let by Jeremy, spent a little more time learning how to walk with crampons and move with an ice axe.

Brett and his team from Quest (Jeremy, Lee, and Tabitha) had set up four topropes for our group of 16 people. We had the gorge to ourselves all day, which surprised me. I couldn't wait to get started and jumped right on a 30-40' NEI 4. The Quest team had set up ropes on three other climbs as well, and I'd guess the rest were NEI 2-3. The ice was perfect, just soft enough, and I managed to make it up the NEI 4 climb with a few falls, mostly a result of poor technique. Two other TerraMar members, both first time ice climbers, made it up that route by the end of the day. We were all whooping and hollering when Carla, a brand new ice climber and triathlete extraordinaire, made it to the top on our last climb of the day.

RE: bad technique - I have a tendency to stand up on my toes when I have a solid grip on the ice with my crampons. Lifting your heels or moving your feet too much at all once you've placed them wiggles the crampon points around in the ice, causing them to slip out. It's an unpleasant surprise if you're in the middle of placing your ice tools!


We all rotated through the four climbs, getting in two or three climbs on average. Other things we were able to cover included:

• belaying - a good number of people had never belayed before
• ice screw placements
• ice anchor building
• movement with an ice axe
• characteristics of ice that is safe to climb

I was incredibly impressed with how well everyone did through the course of the day, considering many had never seen an ice tool before! Making it up an ice climb for the first time is an incredible feat, much less those who were able to climb the NEI 4 on their first day. It was a great learning experience and a whole lot of fun!

A big thanks to Brett, Jeremy, Lee and Tabitha for taking such good care of us, and for helping us all have a unique and incredible Valentine's Day on the ice! Check out the Quest program, too, they have a couple of really amazing international trips coming up, including Portero Chico rock climbing! And thanks to Cory and John for the photos!

Dames in the Dacks on Video!

The 3-day Accelerated Mountaineering course I took with the EMS Climbing School was the first real step I took towards any kind of specialized mountaineering training. It was also the step that pushed me over the edge, and resulted in my signing up for the Summit for Someone climb.

While we were up in the Adirondacks for our Dames in the Dacks adventure, Aleya was determined to capture enough of it on film to create a short documentary of sorts for us to have after the class was over. We also hoped it might serve as a way for Eastern Mountain Sports to show potential students what our class was like. The result is an 11-minute film full of beautiful scenery, goofy faces, and our three monumental days exploring the winter worlds outside Lake Placid, New York.

When Aleya took her video camera out on top of Algonquin peak in fierce winds and low visibility, I remember thinking, "This video's either going to be the coolest thing in the world, or the last few images of us alive!"

Just kidding :) Aleya, our new friend Alex Federman, our fearless leader Matt Weich, and yours truly star in the film. Enjoy!




Dames in the Dacks 2010 from Aleya Van Doren on Vimeo.

Dames in the Dacks: A Mountaineering Adventure

How it All Began.

Inspired by Sara Lingafelter and her trip to Nepal with the Expedition Hanesbrand team, I started looking at mountaineering courses this past fall. I've spent so much time reading about other peoples' adventures in faraway places and I've always wanted to try mountaineering, to be like one of those people I read about. And I never really thought it was possible. But after reading about Sara's experience and trying to understand what it was that kept me from pursuing a whole new realm of outdoor adventure, I finally decided it was time.

One of the most prohibitive factors was, and still is, cost. But where there's a will...you know... and I found out through the Eastern Mountain Sports website that they offer classes of all sorts very close to home. Their 3 Day Accelerated Mountaineering course sounded like the perfect way to introduce myself to ice climbing and mountaineering, and by taking it in the Adirondacks, I'd be doing it in a relatively familiar environment.

Leave it to Twitter to make a good idea a great idea. I was ecstatic to discover that Aleya was interested and we signed up to take the class together.

Day 1: Basic Skills, Sliding Down Hills and My First Pitch of Ice EVER!

Aleya and I met our instructor, Matt, at the EMS store in Lake Placid Friday morning (1/8). We discovered we'd have a third in the class, Alex, an assistant professor of medicine from New York City. Alex's enthusiasm and willingness to learn a million new things in the span of three days was fantastic, and I'm so glad we had the chance to meet him.

We geared up at the store, learning about different types of boots, crampons and ice tools. Matt told us our first half day would be spent learning basics, including walking in crampons and self arrest techniques. Imagine our excitement when we learned we'd be sliding down a hill all morning! Matt took us to what was the site of the 1932 Olympic ski jump landing area for our lessons. We practiced holding our ice axes in self arrest position and arresting while sliding down the hill in different scenarios. The face-first-on-your-back scenario was the scariest, but still, I couldn't help but giggle like a five-year-old while hurtling myself down a snowy slope.

The afternoon was a monumental one. Matt took us to Buster (NEI 2-3, Pitchoff Mountain) for ice climbing. Ice climbing has always been one of those sports I looked at with a furrowed brow, eyes full of skepticism. (You want me to don sharp, pointy things on all of my limbs and throw them at a wall of ice, repeatedly, in the brutal cold?) But when I think of ice climbing, the words "hardcore" and "badass" are among the first I think of. I couldn't wait to try it.

Matt went up first and set a toprope anchor for the three of us to use. Aleya had been ice climbing before, but for Alex and I, it was brand new. It took me a bit to understand what it felt like to really swing the ice tools like I meant it, what it felt like when I hit a good spot, and the sounds the ice makes. But it was absolutely exhilarating. For someone who submits to fear often in rock climbing, I was surprisingly unafraid. Perhaps it was understanding that in ice climbing, you don't fall, and if you do, it's really, really bad.

The afternoon flew by and before we knew it, day 1 was over. We all met George for food and my favorite beer at the Lake Placid Pub and Brewery. George told us about his activities for the day, which involved a solo ice climb called Sisters Right. Awesome, George.

Tools/Gear I Used: Black Diamond Viper Hammer Ice Tool, Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons, Black Diamond Raven or Raven Pro Ice Axe, Petzl Elios Helmet

Day 2: Who Needs One Pitch When You've Got Three?

We began the second day at the EMS store in Lake Placid again and hatched a plan to do a multi pitch ice climb called Chapel Pond Slab (II, WI 2-3, ~700'). I was beyond excited. My first multi pitch climb EVER, and on ice no less! We got to the base of the slab and found but two other parties in the middle of their ascent. Rather than waiting for them in the bitter cold, we moved on to an unnamed three pitch climb a bit down the road from Chapel Pond.

Again, Matt went up first and belayed us all from above. We ascended the first pitch in no time at all, and Alex belayed Matt on lead - his first lead belay ever! We hunkered down into the ice and snow at the top of the first pitch together while Matt led up the second. The entire climb was in the sun, and after the way was over, Aleya and I decided to name the climb "Juicy (NEI 1-2) for reasons I'm sure you can suppose. (We opted for a finalized name of Slushie today).

The second pitch was mostly hard packed snow over a thin sheet of ice, but not at all steep, and the third pitch was ice covered, but short. I half jokingly I told Matt I'd lead it - after all, it was only 20 feet or so. We made it to the top and took turns rappelling down. I finished the day with an incredible sense of accomplishment.

Tools/Gear I Used: Petzl Charlet Quark Ice Tool w/o leash (absolutely loved these), Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons, Petzl Elios Helmet

Day 3: Putting it All Together: Summit of the Second-Highest Adirondack Peak

I've spent many a backpacking trip on the trails in the Adirondacks, and the area is one of my favorite places on Earth. I couldn't wait to try for the second-highest peak in the region, Algonquin, as the true test of what we'd learned. To be honest, I was a bit nervous suiting up in the parking lot at -5ºF. I have all the necessary clothes to stay warm in those conditions, but part of me still couldn't believe I'd make it out without frostbite.

We left around 8am in snowshoes from the Adirondack Loj parking lot. Snowshoes are required on the trails in the winter, not just for personal safety, but to prevent post-holing, which can cause deterioration of the trail and pose a hazard for other users. I found snowshoes extremely awkward at first, but had them figured out in no time. I had a blast experimenting with just how deep a snow pile I could step in without sinking.

We made our way up the trail and reached a good stopping point 0.9 miles below the summit of Algonquin at a trail intersection. One way up led to Wright peak, the other up to Algonquin. We'd decided what our turnaround time was in the parking lot, and agreed we'd reevaluate our summit attempt at that time. Our options were to try for Algonquin at 5,114' or summit Wright instead. We'd passed our turnaround time by a short bit, but after a short discussion, we decided we wanted to try for Algonquin regardless.

Despite hearing reports of brutal wind and decreased visibility, we switched from snowshoes to crampons and moved climbed. When we broke through tree line, I started to get scared. The wind was howling, so fierce that at times that standing seemed difficult. Mid-afternoon snow had come in, as predicted, and a large cloud was enveloping the mountain as we climbed. At no point did I have any doubt Matt was keeping us safe, and I knew he wouldn't have taken us up if he thought there was any danger. But being confronted with that kind of weather - that wind and those temperatures - in such an exposed spot for the first time was scary. Way finding became difficult even though the cairns we were using were quite tall. They'd been enveloped in rime ice and snow, and looked just like any other lump on top of the mountain. But all of the fear aside, it was absolutely beautiful, like another planet only those willing to bear the weather and the conditions got to see.

We made it down safely, switched back to snowshoes, and headed down. I've battled ITBS (Illiotibial Band Syndrome) in the past from running, and my right knee was extremely sore by the end of the descent. Matt suggested I use the poles to take some of the weight off my knee, which helped considerably, but it's definitely something I'm going to need to learn to manage on longer trips. But the pain in my knee didn't matter in the slightest; we'd accomplished something incredible, something I'd always wanted to do, and it felt great.

Holy Moly. I'm so Happy I want to Cry!
Nature of any kind is restorative, and I'm never as happy as I am when I'm outside. Rock climbing, hiking, backpacking, ice climbing, mountaineering, all of it makes me feel more whole. The need to live completely in the moment when I'm on a climb, leaving everything behind, I thirst for it, and am beginning to realize I need to experience that on a regular basis to be happy. I need to be outside. It doesn't always have to be pushing my limits rock climbing, or setting a pace on a hike that makes me want to fall over at the end. It's just being there, feeling the terrain below my feet, feeling the wind on my skin, and knowing I'm just a small part of a very big world.

This weekend was, like I said, a monumental one. I got to try so many things I've only dreamed about trying, never picturing myself as the type of person who'd be doing those things. And granted it wasn't a big mountain, or a super tall ice climb, I still feel like I really accomplished something up in the High Peaks with Alex and Aleya. I've had friends and family members comment on my trip photos, telling me they can't believe the girl they knew could ice climb, or could make it up a mountain in sub zero temperatures and blistering winds.

But I can, and I can't wait to do it again.