Governor Stable Meltdown Outdoor Bouldering Competition Recap

Some Governor Stable boulders, a little wet after the prior day's rain.

Governor Stable, located in Lancaster County, PA, is a 37 acre tract of land with over 100 climbable boulders no more 15 minutes of walking apart. According to Lancaster Online, a group of climbers first secured a lease for ten acres of the land from private landowners when bouldering started gaining popularity. Trespassing problems forced them to shut down climbing for several years, but the Friends of Governor Stable (FroGS) organization recently signed a new lease and reopened the area officially in January of 2011.

Climbing is allowed to members only eight months of the year for a $60 annual fee. “Open Climb Days” are held some weekends throughout the year, and the general public can purchase a $10 day pass to climb there. To me, the membership makes sense. It’s meant to promote responsible climbing and will help preserve access for future generations. Last weekend’s Meltdown Bouldering Competition was my first opportunity to visit Governor Stable, and the first outdoor comp I’ve done.

Meltdown Bouldering Comp Format

After watching rain fall all day Friday, we were all concerned the comp would be postponed. Thankfully, it wasn't, and FroGS assured us the rock was dry. It was, mostly… Competitors had from 10am to 5:30pm to climb and the top ten problems counted toward each competitor’s total point score. No bonuses for flashing problems were given and two fellow climbers had to sign off on each completed problem.

Competitors received a mini guide with a list of every established problem in the area, its name and rating along with a short explanation of how the problem is meant to be climbed. To climb Casablanca (V3), for example, climbers are instructed to “Start on big square cut jug and pull through to a thinner top out.” These one liners certainly weren’t beta, but did help us make sure we climbed each problem from the correct start to the correct finish.

All climbs were assigned a point value from 20 to 1200 and climbers could earn bonus points for climbing a circuit of specific problems. In addition to beginner (V0-V2), intermediate (V3-V5), advanced (V5-V7) and open (V8+) categories, an climbers could enter the "enduro” category and win by climbing the highest number of problems. Strangely, no one entered it!

Paul Esteso on Moby's Dick (V5/V6).

Bouldering Outside ≠ Bouldering Inside

I’d considered the intermediate category during preregistration given the grades I typically climb indoors. But, as we all know, climbing outdoors is different from climbing indoors. It almost feels like a completely different sport to me, and the number of days I’ve bouldered outside remains in the single digits. Throughout the day, I couldn’t come close to consistently climbing the grades I’ve achieved inside. I also don’t ever recall a day where I’d managed ten problems at V3 and above indoors! So, into the beginner category I went.

I warmed up on Biscuit (V0) with Paul and two other climbers spotting. The problem is easy, but it had been at least a year since I’d topped out on anything. I reached the top and hesitated while Paul told me I had as much time as I needed. Throwing my toe over the last edge, I mantled up on my right hand and crawled to the top of the boulder, heart pounding. It took all day for the adrenaline rushes to fade each time I came close to topping out. I was, as always, surprised and elated by the support from other climbers!

It was humbling to spend the entire day working problems V3 and below and to battle so much fear on the top outs. Some of the boulders were definitely still wet from the downpour the day before, which made me nervous, as did the thin layer of green moss that had seemingly appeared overnight on some of the surfaces. But with so many boulders in such a concentrated area, there was no shortage of climbing!

The Results

Jed working on my favorite problem of the day, Casablanca (V3)

I had an amazing group of people to climb with. I was, as always, surprised by and grateful for the amount of support I got from strangers. After listening to a group of guys I didn’t know cheer me on side by side with good friend Paul during my first knee-shaking top out of the day, I knew I was among my community. (And FYI, Paul is one of the best climbing buddies anyone could ask for!) When I left my crash pad for friends working Casanova (V6), a complete stranger offered me her pad while I worked Chai Right (V2) and gave me a spot for the downclimb.

My favorite problem of the day was, by far, Casablanca (V3). It’s an area classic with a beautiful jug to start on and a significant lack of footholds to go with it. With enough body tension, I was able to keep my feet on the wall for the first move, a long throw to a knob with the right hand, which you have to hit before both feet peel off. There’s a heel hook and a bump from an intermediate to a crimp, the crux of the climb for me. It took a handful of tries, but I sent it and it was my highest point valued problem that day.

I ended up climbing eleven problems, earning just under 1000 points and winning the beginner category. Sponsors including East Ridge Outfitters, EMS, Climbnasium and Organic were incredibly generous with donated prizes, and my package included a free pair of Evolv shoes. I chose the Hera model and can’t wait for them to arrive! I also can’t wait for the next open climb day. Governor Stable is an amazing place!

Where My Girls At?

There was a significant lack of female representation in general at the comp, and no one entered the Women’s Advanced or Open divisions. In past comps I’ve attended, including PRG’s Winter Burn and the Earth Treks Roc Comp, the number of men competing was twice that of the women competing. Where are all the girls?

Good friend and kickass lady boulderer Alison Vuocolo aims to do something about that disparity at our home gym, Go Vertical. She's leading a women’s bouldering clinic series beginning at the end of April, which I'll write about on Adventure-Inspired next week. Her clinic filled up in less than a week, which says to me it’s not about lack of interest from the ladies. So, why are there so few women competing?

Have you been to Governor Stable? Do you have favorite climbs there? Tell me in the comments!

Secrets to a Successful Bouldering Competition

Competitors warming up before the Winter Burn comp at PRG Valley.

This weekend's Winter Burn, hosted by Philadelphia Rock Gyms, marked my third bouldering competition. Over my short comp career, I've amassed a set of skills I owe to experience and advice from other climbers. We all define success differently, but for me, success means climbing as hard as I can and having as much fun as possible. These seven "secrets" helped me find success this weekend. So if you're new to competing, or if you're a comp veteran, these "secrets" can help bring you success too!

Secret 1: Show up! Most comps have different divisions for each gender - novice, intermediate, advanced and open. They have problems for climbers of all abilities; there are no barriers to entry. Don't let the word "competition" scare you. I had friends from my home gym hesitate to enter because they didn't think they were good enough. Most of them ended up placing in their divisions. You are good enough! 

Secret 2: Warm up, the most obvious and most ignored piece of advice. You won't climb well if you're stiff. I sat in a car for an hour traveling to PRG Valley for the comp and made sure to do a little jumping around to wake my muscles up. I stretched out and got on the wall a bit. Starting with a handful of problems two or three grades below your ability is a great strategy for warming up climbing muscles. 

Secret 3: Strategize. Most comps have route guides available that list each route by point value and location. Scout out the climbs you want to try and remember where they are. Find problems at the top of your ability that play to your strengths, and have a plan for tackling them. Space your climbs out in the time you're given. Having a plan helped me focus, prevented me from pumping out too quickly and ensured I could complete the required five problems I needed to finish to comp.

Secret 4: Climb with a friend...or eight! One of the best things about competitions is listening to dozens of strangers cheering for you while you're on the wall. But people you climb with regularly know you. They'll be yelling louder than anyone when you send something they know took every ounce of effort you had. I was lucky to have eight friends from Go Vertical competing; it seemed there was someone I knew cheering for me every time I turned around. A recognizable encouraging voice can make all the difference.

Contemplating reaching for the finish hold. (Matthew Botos)

Secret 5: Breathe, relax and rest. It's a competition; you're bound to get a little nervous. It's a good feeling, unless you let it get the best of you. This was the first time I made an active effort to pay attention to nerves and stayed relatively calm. Typical comps like the Burn last for hours; there's no reason to pump yourself out during the first 30 minutes. Just take a deep breath or two, relax, break for a snack and a drink, and proceed to the next paragraph.

Secret 6: Remember, it's about FUN! Don't sweat the small stuff. We do these competitions because we love climbing; it's not about putting pressure on yourself. There will be problems you try that you can't do, but that's okay. And if you don't place where you wanted to, there's always next time! I entered the intermediate division, but was bumped to advanced based on the problems I completed and my score. Thinking about the fact that I could have won intermediate bummed me out, as did knowing I could've placed higher in advanced had I finished harder problems. But being bumped is a good thing, and I ended the night with a personal best number of points. I'm doing my best not to sweat the small stuff!*

Secret 7: Watch and learn. Watching climbers who are better than you work problems you can't do is an valuable learning experience. They'll try things you've never seen before. Someday, I'll be good enough to compete in the Open division and qualify for finals. But until then, I'll keep compiling mental photos of climbers better than I am practicing skills I need to learn. It's inspiring!

Do you have any other tricks you've used to have a successful comp day?
Share them in the comments!

*big thanks to PRG President Dave Rowland for taking the time to explain the bumping process and how PRG handles division cutoffs at comps!

Climb Philly Part 2: Indoor Skills Lessons and Fun for Intermediate Climbers

In Part 1, we talked about ways to start from scratch in rock climbing. Part 2 of the Climbing Philadelphia series focuses on indoor learning and social climbing experiences for intermediate climbers. Classes are geared toward climbers with experience indoors who need to hone skills, and for folks looking to meet other climbers around Philly. 

Philadelphia Rock Climbing Meet-Up Group - This group, supported by TerraMar Adventures on Meet-up.com, is designed to connect Philadelphia-area climbers. It's how I made the bulk of my climbing friends when I moved to Philly in 2007, and I'm so thankful for all the folks who took the time to get me involved in the group.

TerraMar and the meet-up group after ice climbing last winter!

If you're new to the area and need a gym intro, looking for a climbing partner, or just want to climb with some friendly folks, this group's the ticket. Between Go Vertical evening climbs, trying out other Philly area gyms, and the occasional outdoor climbing trip in the summer, it's a great way to meet fellow rock enthusiasts. The message board is full of folks requesting partners and looking for others to climb outside with. While it's not only reserved for intermediate and advanced climbers, it's certainly preferable that you've got belaying experience for the evening climbs. If you don't, here are some great ideas about how to get started! Outdoor trips are also geared toward all skill levels, and there will even be an occasional guided ice climbing trip. Costs vary, but membership is free! Event length and gear requirements vary. RSVPs required, some events required advance payment.. More info here.

Fighting Gravity Series (Climbing 201), Philly Rock Gyms - This three-night course covers proper body positions for climbing efficiency, dynamic movements, and learning how to use your legs to climb. It's a perfect way to really hone those movement skills, and to understand how to be more efficient on the wall. Climbers can attend all three sessions, or an individual evening to brush up on a specific skill. Then, when you're ready for the next step, take their Fighting Gravity Series: The Next Step (Climbing 202) classes! Costs $80/person for all three sessions, $30/person for a single session. Each session is 1 1/2 hours in length.Reservations required. More info here.

4-Part Climbing Clinic, Go Vertical - This four night course focuses on learning to climb stronger and more efficiently through new techniques and identifying both strengths and weaknesses. The series must be taken in its entirety, as each class builds on what climbers learn and practice in the previous sessions. Sessions cover footwork, bodywork, dealing with overhangs, and drills to practice. Costs $165/person. Each session is 2 hours in length. Reservations required. More info here. 

Local Bouldering Competitions! Bouldering comps can be an amazing way to meet new climbers, hone your skills, and bring out your competitive edge. Even if you're a V0 boulderer, they're a blast. You'll find yourself elbow to elbow with some of the best boulderers out there, and when you're up climbing, they'll be cheering for you. I've found most competitors friendly, helpful, and encouraging. They can be a great ego boost, and seeing how the pros do it always helps. I went to my first one last fall, and it was both confidence building and incredibly fun!

Most bouldering competitions are split into categories for scoring so you can be sure you'll be measured against climbers of similar abilities. The Philly Rock Gyms host a handful of comps throughout the year, including the upcoming Midnight Burn in January.

Earth Treks Roc Comp Recap

It might have been the most incredible climbing weekend of my life. And not because of how I climbed, but because of how it made me feel. I'm sitting here back in Philly on a rainy, cold, miserable Monday and I can still feel the endorphins coursing through my veins, a byproduct of the awe and inspiration I left Maryland with on Saturday night. And I'm going to hang on to that feeling as long as possible.

The Earth Treks Roc Comp, sponsored by Mountain Hardwear, is the third bouldering competition I've done, and by far both the most difficult and rewarding. The Earth Treks team did an incredible job putting the whole thing together and making the problems challenging and interesting. Even the easier 100-point problems made me think! The problems were tough, the competition stiff, and the sheer number of hours spent climbing wonderfully exhausting.

Friday, 4/23/10 - Citizens Comp
Climbing started at 4pm on Friday at Earth Treks Columbia, and went until 10pm. It was the typical redpoint format competition with each section monitored by a judge. There was no bonus for flashing, and each fall meant subtracting a point from your score. I'd gone down with Paul, a friend from Go Vertical, and we warmed up on easier problems before picking the ones we'd spend the evening working on.

I was definitely nervous and jittery the entire day. As usual, I put an incredible amount of pressure on myself. The more nervous I got, the more frequently I fell. But after I'd figured out how to calm myself down a bit, things went great. I finished a few 500 point problems, attempted and was close to finishing a 600-pointer, and ended up with 2539 points. My score was good enough for 20th out of 35 in Women's Intermediate, and 28th out of 66 overall in the Citizens Comp.

It was a respectable day, and a day I was proud of. I definitely posted a problem or two on the scorecard I didn't think I had a prayer of finishing. It's amazing what support from a group of strangers and a little pressure can do! Knowing you'll have to go to the back of the line and wait 15 minutes to try it again if you fall helps too. Paul had an amazing showing with 3257 points and a 22nd place finish in Men's Intermediate. A fellow Philly climber, Andrew Egan, won the Men's Advanced division with 4426 points.

The coolest moment of the day was sitting side by side waiting for my turn on a section right behind Lisa Rands. She was attempting a 915-point problem while I waited for another try on a 565-pointer. I'd kept my eye out for her, Chris Sharma, Matt Bosley, Alex Puccio, Daniel Woods and all the other pros during the course of the day, and it was so incredibly inspiring climbing with them there. Seeing Lisa Rands in particular left me a little starstruck! She's been one of my idols since I discovered my love for bouldering, and the chance to be in the same line with her waiting to climb was amazing. Of course, seeing Chris Sharma in person seemed surreal, especially when he flashed the hardest problem at the comp. I'd try explaining the significance of climbing with Lisa and Chris to non-climbers by comparing it to playing basketball with Michael Jordan, but I'm not even sure that was enough!

Saturday, 4/24/10 - Citizen's Semifinals and Pro Finals
This was the day I'd been waiting for since I'd found out about the Roc Comp - a chance to see some of the best climbers in the country compete in person! Paul and I started the day the best way we could think of - we headed straight back to the Earth Treks Columbia to conquer some of the problems that alluded us the day before! My favorite project of the day was a 500-pointer featuring a large hold that resembled Jason Kehl's "The Growth." We logged another two and a half hours of climbing before deciding our bodies couldn't take any more, and drove up to Earth Treks Timonium to watch the Citizens Comp Semifinals. I don't think my fingertips have ever been that raw! It felt so incredibly good. And it was hard to stop climbing, it almost hurt.

The Citizens Comp Semifinals was essentially a qualifier for Pro Finals. The top 20 competitors in the pro category made it to semifinals, and the top six in semifinals competed again in finals. Semifinals consisted of four problems, and finals included three. I couldn't have finished, potentially started, any of them! Paul and I watched the semifinals while another car full of Philly climbers made their way south to meet us for finals. The semifinals field was incredibly competitive, and climbers I expected to qualify for finals didn't.

The Pro Finals were beyond incredible. The gym was packed to the brim with spectators and deafening cheers erupted from the crowd at regular intervals. It was unlike anything I'd ever seen before, and I'm sure whatever words I choose in this post won't begin to describe what I was feeling watching all of it! All I can say is I'm convinced each one of the finals climbers has superpowers. Watching them hit moves I didn't think were humanly possible has me absolutely positive each of them is a super-person.

After it was over, I was determined to gather up enough courage to meet Lisa Rands after having spent quite a bit of the weekend trying to figure out what you're supposed to say when you walk up to one of your idols to introduce yourself. I discovered even if you plan what you'd like to say, it goes out the window when you realize they're right in front of you, ready to talk to you like any normal person would! Meeting Lisa was the highlight of my weekend, and despite feeling like a silly crazy person being so worked up about saying hello to her, I'm glad I had the chance to do it. I had to remind myself that despite her living legend status, we both share a passion for the same thing, and we have climbing in common. All 300 of us who competed this weekend have something very special in common.

Sunday, 4/24/10 - The Morning After
We made it back to Philly just after midnight Saturday. I planned to go straight to bed knowing I had to get up to lead a TerraMar Adventures hike in the Delaware Water Gap Sunday morning, but couldn't resist pulling out the camera to check the photos and videos we took. I woke up absolutely exhausted, but still reeling from the excitement of the comp - a happy hangover. I left Maryland so inspired to climb harder, to push myself beyond what's comfortable, and am going to hang on to that feeling as long as I can.

Coverage of the comp, including photos and videos, are up in the following places:
Dead Point Magazine here, and here, and here
My photo gallery here
The Earth Treks website here and the Earth Treks twitter account here
The praNa blog here

My Second Bouldering Comp!

(Paul Esteso and I celebrating the comp at dinner. Photo by Shalini Shashidhara.)

This post really should be titled, "What I'm Thankful For," particularly in reference to climbing. The Friction Bouldering 2009 Series Finale was one of the best days of climbing I've ever had, not only because of the results, but because of the incredible support system I have and how it came about.

The comp was the last in a series of five that took place around the mid-Atlantic region, of which the last comp I did was also a part. It was hosted by the incredible Earth Treks Timonium gym in Maryland. I can't wait to get back down there and climb again. It's one of the best gyms I've ever been to for bouldering, and I have no doubt the other two Earth Treks gyms are the same. I drove down with two friends from Go Vertical, Emily and Shalini, having only met Shalini once. They dropped me off in Timonium and headed Columbia to check out another Earth Treks location. I met up with Paul, an incredible boulderer and all-around great guy, another friend from Go Vertical. I love my little Philly climbing community, and can't believe how many incredible people I've met as a result of our mutual love for the sport. 

The comp went something like this:

• The gym was divided into at least 10 sections, each with several problems of varying point values.
• All climbs were peer judged, meaning you had to ask two people who'd seen you finish the problem sign off on your scorecard. There were no formal judges.
• Each climb was assigned a point value, and to receive the full point value, you had to flash the problem. There was no scoring bonus for flashing.
• If you didn't flash the problem, you recorded the number of falls and this tally was used to break ties.
  
• There were no lines at each section, climbers just took turns trying out problems in their chosen section. I was amazed at how smoothly things went!
• Climbers had four hours to complete the five hardest problems with the fewesr number of falls.
• Each division, (beginner, intermediate, and advanced), was assigned a "money" problem. These problems were at least one grade above the highest grade a competitor in that division should have been able to complete. At the top was a $5 or $10 bill. The first in each division to complete the problem got the money.
• Finals worked the same way the did in my previous post.

I was slightly nervous most of the day, but was glad to have a little more experience with comps and a handful of friends there. Just as the contest started, I got a note from Aleya, whom I'd chatted with on Twitter and had a chance to meet for the first time in person! She's every bit as fun and energetic as I thought she'd be, and I felt so lucky to have the chance to meet her. She was encouraging and supportive of everything I tried, even though we'd only met just as the comp started. She hadn't planned on competing, but couldn't resist trying a few problems anyway, and she did really well. She also introduced me to Chris Warner, and I did my best not to be starstruck. He's an incredibly accomplished alpinist and the founder of Earth Treks, Inc.

Over the course of the day, I tried a number of different types of problems, including several that were above my ability. I've learned the vibe at a gym can have a very positive affect on my climbing, and everyone there was so supportive and encouraging. Groups would yell for someone completing a 200-point problem or a 700-point problem, it didn't matter. I found the ratings to be a bit softer than my home gym, and was able to complete two 500-point problems and one 600-point problem. I finished the day with 2,475 points, an improvement over the last comp, even without the 10% bonus!

We had quite a strong representation from Philly watching finals - five of us total - and it was just as incredible as I expected. The encouragement from the crowd for every competitor was inspiring, and I hope I'll be able to compete in finals at a comp some day. All the problems were put up dead center in the gym and lit with spotlights. When finals began, the rest of the lights in the gym were switched off and the focus was entirely on the competitors. Talk about pressure! But what an incredible rush it must be.

My performance was good enough for 3rd place in my division, women's intermediate, and good enough for second place in my division in the series overall! I couldn't believe I placed in the series at all, seeing as I'd only been in two of the five comps. Despite the fact that 3rd out of the four women in my division might not be anything to write home about, it felt so incredible to have the Philly crowd cheering for me and to have accomplished more than I set out to do. I had a blast spending time with a handful of folks from the Philly gyms, all of whom I knew but had never really spent a ton of time with. Overall, it was an incredible day. Good time with great friends, a great support system of strangers, and some awesome climbing!

Things I'm Incredibly Thankful For in Climbing:

• to have discovered the sport at all, and to have discovered bouldering
• to have such an incredible support system from friends and other climbers, something I see every time I get on an indoor wall or outdoor rock
  
• to have the chance to meet people like Aleya, echoing my sentiments from the #jtreetweetup
• to be able to learn and improve my climbing, thanks to all the climbers I've met and spent time with!
  

My First Bouldering Comp!

 Posing with my scorecard at the end of the comp - photo by Nina Martin

Rather than venturing straight to bars or house parties to celebrate Halloween, my climbing partner in crime, Nina, and "dressed up" as dirty climbers and competed in the Philadelphia Rock Gym's 15th Annual Midnight Burn comp, part of the Friction Bouldering Series. I had no idea what to expect, and no idea as to how the comp was going to work when we arrived. I learned a lot, although I'm sure each will be a bit different. Notice that last bit means I'm eagerly awaiting my next chance to compete! The Midnight Burn went something like this:

• The gym was divided into sections of 4-5 bouldering problems, and judge was assigned to each section.
  
• Each problem was assigned a point value from 70 to 1200. Each 100-point increase essentially equated to a grade increase... I think. i.e. 235 point problem = V2, 490 point problem = V4+, 1200 point problem = V12. Grading is subjective, of course.
  
• We were all given a scorecard to carry with us and had to hand the card to the judge for the section the problem we wanted to try was in. We had to wait until our card came up to try. If the line was long, it could mean a 10 minute wait between attempts - good incentive to get it on the first try!
  
• The comp was an Open Redpoint Format, which means each competitor could try a problem as many times as they wanted without penalties for failure. A 10% scoring bonus was added if the problem was flashed (completed without failure) on the first try.
  
• We had to enter one of four categories - Novice, Intermediate, Advanced, or Open (reserved for national-caliber climbers). The categories were based on the anticipated level of difficulty. I entered the Intermediate category, which was for V2-V3 climbers (V3-V5 for men).
• Competitors had three hours to complete the five hardest problems they could. Those five were then added up to determine ranking. The top climbers in the Open category came back for a modified World Cup Format finals session.
• In finals, the climbers were placed in isolation as the problems were set up. Each climber had three problems to try and had to get as far as they could, or finish each one. Each climber would work the first problem for five minutes, then move to a chair facing away from the second for a five minute rest, and so on.
  

I was nervous for a good bit of the day, mostly because I have trouble dealing with failure, but tried to be reasonable in my expectations. It was intimidating being in line behind a girl cranking on a V8 when I'd only done V4s at best, but it was great motivation. I had to provide myself with little attitude checks several times, and remember thinking, "What am I doing here? I can't get up there and try the 459-point problem when everyone else is working the 690-point problem, I'm not good enough."

But I had the chance to try problems I thought were out of my realm of skill and expertise with dozens of people I didn't know cheering for me, and I got to see some absolutely incredible climbers. And it was about fun anyway, right? My best moment of the day was completing a 480-point problem on an overhanging arete. I started it thinking there was absolutely no way I was going to finish it, but hung on for dear life and got it on the first try. The judge and a handful of others cheering me on certainly made a difference! It was a great confidence boost, although not enough of a boost to get me through the 560-pointer I tried next!

I firmly believe that climbing is an incredibly unique sport practiced by supportive and encouraging individuals. Even though climbing is an individual sport and can seem like a selfish pursuit, none of us could've gotten where we are in the sport without a little help. Unless you're free soloing, you need a belayer or a spotter, someone with whom you entrust with your well-being. And that's no small thing. The sport of climbing also encourages passing on knowledge. Whether it's in the form of route beta, technique tips for beginners, or exposure to an entirely new climbing discipline, the support from members of the climbing community is inspiring.

I ended up third in the women's intermediate category with a total of 2301.9 points, which was a pleasant surprise. I was happy to discover my prize was something I'd make use of: the Black Diamond Gorilla chalk bag. It later became a perfect dirty climber Halloween costume accessory!

Nina and I stayed to watch the finals, and had front row seats to some of the most ridiculous climbing I've ever seen, short of The Sharp End and King Lines. But movies don't count. Watching girls attempting long V8-V9s and completing them was inspiring, especially considering the start of the first problem was a huge dyno to an overhanging jug... backwards! The sheer determination both the men's and women's finalists exhibited was nothing short of inspiring, and I'd love to be there with them someday.

I've already marked my calendar with the next comp I'll be able to attend, which is December 12th at Earth Treks Climbing Gym in Timonium, Maryland. There's a comp in Pennsylvania on November 14th, but I'll be happily scraping the skin off my fingers in Joshua Tree at the first-ever JTree Tweetup! I can't wait to meet the other 20 or so Twitter climbers who've signed up, coming from as far away as Montreal (@DavidLutzy)! I also can't believe Eileen (@rockgrrl) was able to get us a couple of incredible sponsors, including ActionWipes and Clif Bar! It's going to be an incredible long weekend, and I know I'm going to want to stay. Also looking forward to reading everyone's trip reports when we get back!


I closed out a weekend full of climbing with a trip to see an incredible, high-energy production of Grace, or The Art of Climbing. I'm certainly biased by my love of the sport, but it was one of the most interesting, exciting plays I've ever seen. We sat in the basement of an old warehouse which, with the help of Tracy Pedersen from PRG, was outfitted with climbing holds, draws and ropes. We followed Emma, the play's heroine, through breakups, family trouble, trust issues and more over the course of two hours sitting on a gym mat on the floor. We'd all shift our weight and turn to watch the actors bounce from one area of the basement covered in holds to another. The themes really resonated with me - mostly the need to trust your belayers and coaches, and how your attitude towards them can have real-life implications. If you ever have the chance, go see it! It runs in Philly through November 8th.

Until next time...climb on!